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The ancient village of Pago

Exposed in some soils were intact Latte Period cultural features including an earth-oven, postholes, and prehistoric trash pits as well as intact and previously disturbed human skeletal remains.  Charcoal recovered from intact cultural features was radiocarbon dated.  A variety of stone and shell tools and shell ornaments was recovered and described. Floral and faunal remains were identified and they provide information about traditional subsistence practices.

Excavations in a previously disturbed area uncovered a probable limestone latte pillar and capstone.  The exposed latte pillar was .87 m long and the capstone was .24 m thick, making a pillar/cap combination with a maximum height of 1.11 m. The disturbed latte elements provide tangible evidence that at least one latte set formerly existed in this area.  But it is likely that the area once had more sets.

Human skeletal remains, which are generally closely associated with latte sets erected along Guam’s shoreline, were exposed in three of the four project areas.  Based on the scattered distribution of the skeletal remains, it could be inferred that latte sets had been built on the sand flat on the northeast side of the river and on the northern edge of the limestone plateau on the south side of the river.

Generally the individuals had been placed into prepared pits dug into the ground, although outlines of pits were not always visible.  The burials exposed in the sand deposits were preserved in place without being entirely exposed by hand.  Thus, little information about burial practices, or the age, sex, or condition of those individuals was gained.  The previously disturbed human remains exposed at the northern edge of the limestone plateau south of the river were recovered and they will be reburied on the property.   Most of the preserved remains were adults.  The recovered remains included adults and juveniles as well as males and females.

A zone of stone cobble mounds located along the base of the limestone slope south of the Pago River was interpreted as an agricultural field where yams may have been grown.  A grain of yam (Dioscorea) starch in a soil sample from this zone, as well as yam spines in the soils, provided tangible evidence that the tubers and the vines were once present.

Soil samples taken from the Pago wetland on the south side of the Pago River provided evidence that taro was once cultivated in this area.  Other plants once present in this area included mangrove, breadfruit, coconut, ferns, pandanus, and grasses.

Radiocarbon Dates:

Seven radiocarbon dates were obtained.  One date with a range of 210-30 B.C. was not associated with a cultural deposit.  Four dates fell within the Latte Period and their calibrated ranges were A.D. 870-1020, A.D. 1020-1190, A.D. 1150-1280, and A.D. 1290-1420. One date had a range that extended from the late Latte Period into the early Spanish Period (A.D. 1440-1640).  The seventh date was modern, post A.D. 1950.  The dates indicate that people utilized the area from near the beginning of the Latte Period into early Spanish times.

Latte Period Artifacts:

Latte Period artifacts recovered from the project areas include pottery fragments, shell ornaments such as Conus and Spondylus beads, bone spear points, fragments of bone awls or needles,  a small coral mortar, slingstones, basalt and chert flakes, basalt tool fragments such as pounders and adzes, Tridacna shell adzes, and Isognomon fish hooks and fish gorges.

Ambergris:

Two probable pieces of ambergris (a waxy substance formed in the intestines of sperm whales) were recovered and they provide the first archaeological indication that Latte Period people may have been familiar with this material. Ambergris floats on the ocean surface and it sometimes washes up on beaches in the form of irregularly shaped lumps.  The fact that these two pieces, recovered from two different cultural features, appear to have a similar shape, suggests that people may have utilized the substance in some consistent way.  Historic accounts from the late 1700s note that ambergris occasionally washed up on Guam’s shores, but the account did not mention that the material was ever collected and/or utilized.

Latte Period Activities:

Based on the data collected, the Latte Period activities included cutting, chopping, scraping, pounding, abrading, tool making, tool repair, the production of fishing gear, fishing, mollusk collecting, farming, and cooking.  The finished beads suggest that the people made and wore ornaments manufactured from marine shells.  The postholes and the latte elements indicate that they built houses or other structures, buried their dead near the areas where they made tools and prepared food.  The food and plant remains indicate that they ate breadfruit, yams, taro, a variety of shellfish including gastropods and bivalves, caught fish including parrotfish and shark, and captured fruitbat and turtle.

Archaeology notes:
Recently archaeologists working along the shores of Pago Bay, on Guam’s east coast, discovered previously buried archaeological soils, features and artifacts indicating that people lived along the shores of this bay hundreds of years before the Spanish first arrived in A.D. 1521.

During the period from 2005-2009 four archaeological projects were completed in Pago Bay.  Three small projects were located northeast of the Pago River in the vicinity of Frank Perez Park, a public recreation area located on the shoreline, northeast of the river mouth. The fourth and largest project, the Laguna Pago Bay Resort, is located south of the river.  These projects found that the lands bordering the bay on both sides of the river had been utilized during the Latte Period (A.D. 900-1521), and they revealed new information about the ancient village of Pago, the nature of its occupation and the range of activities traditionally carried out by the people who lived there.

Three separate projects completed on the north side of the river were situated on the accumulated sand deposits that lie southeast of Chalan Justice Monessa Lujan, formerly known as Inalado Road, and the shoreline.  The large project completed on the south side of the river included a narrow strip of beach bordered by a limestone cliff with rock overhangs and upland areas developed on a limestone base that formed a plateau and slopes. While all of the areas had been considerably disturbed in the past, the projects identified scattered pockets of intact cultural deposits dating to the Latte Period.

By Darlene Moore, MA

For further reading

Carson, M.T. and J.A. Peterson. 2009.  Draft Report, Archaeological Research at the Laguna Pago Bay Resort, Lots 155 NEW, 164 NEW, and 164-4, Yona Municipality, Guam.  Prepared for Pago Bay Resort, L.L.C.  Micronesian Area Research Center, University of Guam, Mangilao.

Lévesque, R. 1999. Vol. 14, Full Census of the Marianas, 1746-1773.  History of Micronesia, A Collection of Source Documents. Lévesque Publications, Quebec, Canada.

Moore, D.R. 2007.  Latte Period and Spanish Period Archaeology at Old Pago, Guam.  Prepared for Mr. and Mrs. Richard Untalan and Guam Preservation Trust.  Prepared by Micronesian Archaeological Research Services, Mangilao, Guam.

Vernon, N., P.M. O’Day, and L.E. Bulgrin. 2009.  Archaeological Data Recovery of Lot 3329-1-R4-R/W, Municipality of Chalan Pago and Ordot, Guam.  Prepared for Ellen’s Realty.  Garcia and Associates, Hawaii.

Yee, S.L. 2009.  Archaeological Inventory Survey, Testing, and Monitoring on the Perez Lot, Pago Bay, Guam.  Prepared for Mr. Vincent G. Perez.  Prepared by International Archaeological Research Institute, Inc., Guam.

Images

Description

Meat, chicken and fish marinated and grilled.

History

Origin

The popular ritual of modern-day Chamorro barbecuing (which is technically grilling) is relatively recent in Guam history. Chamorro barbecue, as we know it today, began with frequency in the early 1960s when it became easy to purchase packaged meats and poultry. Post- World War II food items, such as butchered pre-packaged meats, were shipped to Guam to provide for the large number of military personnel. Those with access to the military commissary were able to get the meats and chicken – which would become choice for barbecue – at a much lower cost than at local civilian stores.

The act of cooking meat over fire, however, in preparation for a celebration has likely gone on for thousands of years. The concept of “barbecue” was different in earlier millennia.  The Chamorro word for cooking over fire, tunu, is an ancient Chamorro word that is shared with other Pacific island peoples who populated the Pacific thousands of years ago. On Guam, there was no beef, pork, chicken or deer. These animals were introduced to Guam in the Spanish-colonization era beginning in the 17^th century. Before this, Chamorros preferred seafood and other protein-sources such as turtle, birds and fruit bat (fanihi), but were gradually indoctrinated to the new food sources.

Flavorings were from salt extracted from seawater, coconut cream, lemon and mango’ (yellow ginger or tumeric). Historical accounts state that as meat was introduced into the Chamorro diet, it was cooked with the method used to prepare dishes of seafood, roots and tubers in a chåhan (to cook in an underground pit) common to Pacific Islands. Food was covered with leaves directly on coals or suspended over a fire. During the Latte Period thick-walled clay pots emerged, according to archeological records, that were suitable for cooking. It is likely that as meat was introduced into the Chamorro diet, it was stewed along with starches in these vessels.

For gupot siha (festive events), where large quantities of food had to be cooked, it is likely that the preferred method of cooking was chinåhan (a derivation of the word chåhan). French explorer Louis Claude de Freycinet, who came to Guam in 1819 described the chinåhan as follows:

A layer of flat stones, then some wood that was dry, and then some small stones or pebbles, were so placed to form a bed at the bottom of a whole, dug in the ground and of a size suitable for the intended purpose. When the wood was reduced to embers, all the smoking pieces that could be found were carefully removed from the pit with the aid of sticks. The little stones, which were by now extremely hot, were then spread out as evenly as possible over the hot pit bottom, and the object to be cooked was placed on them. Finally, everything was covered with large leaves, then with more hot stones, and finally with earth, so that no steam could escape.

Cooking by chåhan likely began to decline once European traders brought in metal cooking pots. However some families continued the practice up through World War II.

The Spanish colonization in the 17^th century brought many new food choices. During this era, beef, pork, chicken and venison were added to the Chamorro diet along with new fruits, vegetables, spices and foreign methods of food preparation.

Hotno: During the Spanish and early American era, pork and beef became important foods for celebrations. When large animals were slaughtered, it was usually for a fandango or fiesta and the meat would be divided up for various uses. If the family was fortunate enough to have one of the large Spanish-style hotno (oven) it would be used to cook the largest pieces of beef and even whole pigs.

Na’lagu : After World War II, a method for cooking large pieces of meat was to make a pot roast. This consisted of taking a large piece or pieces of pork or beef and cooking them in large pots over an open flame. Some families acquired large galley-sized pots that were sold as US Navy surplus and these remain treasured possessions. Innards, blood and other extra parts of the pig were usually made into fritada, the fattiest parts were made into lard (mantika), and ribs were made into soups and stews.

Tinala’: One of the most common methods of meat preparation in the days before electricity was tinala’ or drying, which was used for beef and venison. Since there was little refrigeration until the 1950s, meat had to be preserved if it was not to be consumed immediately. This process involved slaughtering and cleaning the animal and then cutting the meat into strips and salting it before drying it in the open air. According to some oral histories, some said that included suspending meat in jungle areas away from houses was best for drying meat because there was a lack of flies in jungled areas, while another method was to dry mean on roofing tins laid on the ground. After World War II, when tin roofs became more common, the latter method was often used. Drying was sped up by smoking the meat by suspending it over a low fire on a metal wire.

Another process that helped preserve meat was to soak it in salt and either lemon or vinegar for one or two days and then smoke it until dry. Whichever method was used, the dried strips of meat were then rolled up and placed into 5-gallon biskuchu (biscuits) cans that were sealed. If this process was done correctly, the meat would be good for several months, but would be monitored to ensure that worms or bugs did not infest the contents.

Tunu: When heating tinala’ katne (dried beef) or when cooking fresh meat in large quantities a common method was to build a large fire with ifit (ifil) or agao and wait until the fire was reduced to pinigan (charcoal). Coconut husks were sometimes added to provide a unique flavor. The meat was then placed on the hot coals and turned until done.

Evolution

The typical marinade consists of ingredients such as black pepper, onions and vinegar which were introduced shortly after the Americans arrived on Guam in 1898. Other ingredients such as soy sauce were brought later by Japanese merchants, and garlic powder at an even later date in recent times.  Red peppers (donne), tuba vinegar (from fermented coconut sap introduced by Filipinos), lemon and green onions became important ways to flavor meat in stews (estufao) and soups (sopas or kådu).

Before the war, barbecued meat was often available at the fiesta table. Much of the cooking was done by women, along with other dishes that were prepared in the outside kitchen. In the 1960s, when large quantities of spare ribs, cases of chicken and other frozen meat from the mainland became readily available, barbecuing would become a much more important part of the party preparation and it would become a job of men. Preparing the meat also became more complex as new spices, sauces and vegetables became available on Guam.

At modern-day Chamorro gatherings, various kinds of barbecued meat have become staples of the table. After passing the starches, one probably comes across and array of barbecued chicken, short ribs, spare ribs, brisket, tinala’ katne, pork belly, turkey tails, fish and various other cuts of meat and proteins. The favorite marinade for these meats is usually some combination of soy sauce, vinegar, salt, black pepper, lemon, garlic powder, and onions, plus whatever secret ingredients the cook wishes to add.

Preparation

For most barbecued meat dishes, preparation begins the night before a party or early in the morning when meat is placed in marinade. Then the meat is ready for grilling. Contemporarily, some outdoor kitchens include built-in concrete barbecue areas but many people prefer the charcoal or gas-powered store-bought grills brought on by modernization and convenience. The island favorite is probably the 55- gallon metal drum (tanke), either standing or cut lengthwise. A favorite fuel is the ever present tangantangan (Leucaena glauca) but some barbecuers take the extra effort to find slower burning woods like gago (Polynesian ironwood, Casuarina equisetifolia) or ahgao (false elder, Premna gaudichaudii).

When the fire is ready, the ritual of cooking the meat begins. Plastic containers (usually Tupperware) and in the case of large fiestas, coolers filled with marinated meat is loaded on to grills as designated barbecuers squint trying to avoid the ever-shifting smoke and heat. Meat is constantly turned until cooked and then cut and placed methodically – for aesthetic pursposes and presentation – into serving dishes.

While the work can be exhausting, the men may prefer it to other types of party preparation such as making party favors, setting up tables or decorating påla påla siha (canopies), which is routinely dictated by women. The barbecuers’ job is rewarded with the ease of consumption of cans of ice cold carbonated beverages and the opportunity to chesa (eat appetizers from) the meat hot off the grill dipped in fina’denne’.

Placement on table

Barbecue is placed in the toche section, second only to the åggon (startch) section which goes at the head of the table. The toche section is as placed in the following order: chicken, beef, pork and fish or seafood.

By Michael R. Clement, Jr., MA

* Tanya M. Champaco Mendiola contributed to this entry

Recipe

Spareribs Barbecue Marinade

1 case spareribs
1 large onion, sliced
2 garlic bulbs, chopped
3 cups soysauce
1 ½ cups vinegar
1 cup ketchup
Black pepper to taste

Chefs may add preferred ingredients and adjust the ones provided above to personal tastes. This recipe for a case of spareribs can be used for steaks as well.

Mix all ingredients in a large container and add meat of choice. The longer meats are allowed to sit in marinade, the more flavorful the meat will be. Remove meat from marinade and barbecue (grill).

*Recipe by Aline A. Yamashita

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Description

This popular dessert item is a dark-colored baked cake that contains chocolate as the main flavoring ingredient.  Often coated with sugar frosting or icing, the chocolate cake is presented as a sheet cake or a layered round, and decorated to suit the occasion.

History

Origin

Chocolate cake is a dessert item that is often served at gatherings such as birthday parties and weddings.  Like many dessert cakes and pastries (postri) enjoyed on Guam, chocolate cake in its present incarnation probably appeared with the arrival of Americans to the island in the early part of the 20th century.  Indeed, recipes for chocolate cake were printed in early editions of the Guam Recorder, such as those belonging to Mrs. H. A. Nagle, a graduate of the Mrs. Barber Cooking School in Philadelphia and an instructor of domestic science classes at the Guam Department of Education.

Cakes were classified in the traditional Chamorro food category of postri, which included dessert cakes, sweet rolls and pastries.  It is unclear if chocolate cake was consumed during the Spanish era (17th through 19th centuries), although the Spanish did introduce chocolate sweets, chocolate drinks, and pastries to the Chamorro people.  The Spanish also introduced the cultivation of cacao, the plant from which chocolate is derived.  Although never grown into an agricultural or commerical industry, cacao plants remained on Rota (or Luta, an island north of Guam and part of the Mariana Islands) even after World War II.

Evolution

Although many families today choose to purchase chocolate cake from local bakeries or use a prepared cake mix from one of the more popular national brands, such as Duncan Hines or Betty Crocker, a few brave individuals will bake their own cakes from scratch.

Preparation

The ingredients for chocolate cake vary with recipes, but essential components are eggs, flour, sugar, cocoa powder, butter or oil, salt and baking soda.   Most of these ingredients obviously are imported food items.  Different frostings can be used to cover the cake, and other items may be added to enhance flavors and textures, such as nuts, coffee, coconut or other fruits. Indeed, chocolate cake is one of the most versatile items on the fiesta dessert table and a nice way to close out a festive meal.

Placement on table

Chocolate cake is placed with the desserts at the end of the table, but dishes classified as desserts are most commonly placed on a separate table.

By Dominica M. Tolentino, MA

Recipe

Devil’s Food Recipe

Part one:

One cup of brown sugar, one cup of grated chocolate, one half-cup of sweet milk

Part two:

One cup brown sugar, one half-cup sweet milk, yolks of three eggs, two cups flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder.

Put part one on the stove and let it come to a boil.  Cool and mix with part two.  Layer with vanilla.  Bake in three layers and put together with white icing.

* Recipe from “Recipes and Domestic Science Hints” by Mrs. Nagle in The Guam Recorder, Volume II, December 1925, p. 284.

Little Chocolate Cakes

Two tablespoons of butter, one cup of sugar, ½ cup of water, 1-1/2 cups of flour, a pinch of salt, 1 tablespoon of vanilla, put together with butter as for cake.  Bake in patty pans in moderate oven.

* Recipe from Little Chocolate Cakes by Mrs. Nagle in The Guam Recorder, Volume III; September 1926, p. 163.

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Description

A spicy salad that is made with cucumbers, pickled radish (diago), kimchee base and vinegar.

History

Origin

Cucumbers were introduced by the Spanish (possibly during the 17th century) and have been cultivated by Chamorros for inclusion in their diet.

The radish that is included in the salad is pickled in vinegar and dyed with yellow food coloring to provide a vibrant color addition to the dish. For decades, this radish, called daikon in Japanese, has been a popular local food item  mixed with vinegar and local hot peppers (donne) and sold out of village mom and pop stores in the familiar gallon-sized glass containers that sit on the check-out counter, or located in small containers in store chillers.  Diago is also easily made in home kitchens and stored in glass or plastic containers. “Pickling” preserves the diago which can be stored for months in refrigerators and eaten as a side dish.

Kimchee (or kimchi) is a popular Korean side dish consisting of vegetables, including Napa cabbage, that have been fermented in chile sauce. Kimchee is also a local favorite and found in grocery stores usually pre-packaged in glass jars of varying sizes and eaten as a side dish.

The kimchee base used for the cucumber/diago kimchee salad is a product of Japan and  is prepared in bottles commonly found in  local grocery stores.  The ingredients include garlic, ginger, salt, red pepper, glucose, bonito extract, seaweed, vinegar, citric acid, and monosodium glutamate.  It is a very pungent spice and provides a very distinct flavor in the salad.

Evolution

Guam’s Japanese and Korean communities have introduced cuisine that is favored locally as evidenced by the popularity of restaurants that feature these countries’ cuisines.

The inclusion of a cucumber/daigo vegetable salad on the fiesta table is still relatively new starting to appear possibly in the 1990s.  The mix produced by the spiciness and flavors of the kimchee base mixed with the mildness of the cucumbers and tang of the daigo have curried favor with the local populace.

Prior to popularity of the cucumber/daigo kimchee base mix, a dish consisting of cut cucumbers in mixture of soy sauce, vinegar, black pepper, red peppers (donne) and a dash of vegetable oil  was popular at fiestas.  This salad is still found on the fiesta menu and along with kimchee base recipe, some times more often than the soy sauce version.  There may be multiple reasons for this:  it may be more economical to purchase a small jar of kimchee base as opposed to a gallon of soy sauce and  a pint of vinegar to prepare the dish. Another reason may be that flavorfulness of the kimchee base gained favor.

Preparation

Young women or girls may be put in charge of this recipe as it is relatively easy to prepare. Girls may help mothers, aunts and female cousins in the cutting of ingredients if it is for a large party. (i.e. 100 or more guests)

Placement on table

Cucumber/diago kimchee salad is found in the salad section, which is adjacent to the kelaguen section on the fiesta table. These are behind the åggon (starch) and totche (meat and proteins) section, respectively, of the table.  In a large party, the kelaguen and salad section may be placed on a separate table.

By Velma Yamashita, MA and Tanya M. Champaco Mendiola

Recipe

Cucumber/Daigo Kimchee Salad

1  17-ounce whole pickled radish (daigo/ daikon) or pre-cut for convenience
4 cucumbers
6.5 ounce kimchee base
Vinegar  (Same amount as kimchee base. Use the kimchee base jar to measure the vinegar.)

Cut daigo and cucumbers into 2-inch spears. Pour in kimchee base and vinegar. Mix thoroughly and let sit for at least an hour before serving

* Recipe by Antoinette Champaco

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Description

A Filipino noodle dish with meat and vegetables.

History

Origins

Noodles are the main ingredient of pancit.  Although originally from China, noodles were adapted into the traditional Filipino dish that is known today as pancit. It is not unusual to find some popular Filipino dishes on a local fiesta table.

Filipinos have a long history in the Marianas Islands of which Guam is the largest.  In the 17th century, the Spanish brought Filipino soldiers to Guam to help quell the Chamorro resistance to Christianization and colonization efforts.

Throughout the centuries, Filipino immigrants traveled to the islands on a fairly consistent basis.  According to the Spanish census, Filipinos comprised nearly forty percent of the local population.  Migration increased notably post-World War II as tens of thousands of Filipino workers came to assist in rebuilding efforts.

Evolution

As Filipinos made Guam their home and interaction between the two cultures occurred, there was an exchange of customs, language and foods. There are similarities in traditional foods from both cultures as they have a shared colonial history.  Religious practices as well as food and borrowed languages have Spanish influence.

An Asian tradition that has become more popular on Guam is the preparation of pancit on special occasions, such as birthdays and New Year’s Eve.  The consumption of the long noodles is believed to ensure a long life in those who eat the dish.

Preparation

The two main variations of this noodle dish found on the fiesta table are pancit canton and pancit bihon.  In the past, pancit canton was the more common of the two. The difference between the dishes is the type of noodle used.  Pancit bihon includes a thin translucent rice noodle while pancit canton incorporates an egg noodle, similar in appearance to the familiar spaghetti noodle. The meat and vegetables are consistent in both versions:  chicken, pork or shrimp (or a combination of the three), cabbage, bell peppers, celery, carrots, onions, and garlic.

Placement on table

Pancit is found after the totche section which contains the protein dishes such as rice and dishes made with coconut milk (lechen niyok). The totche section is second to the åggon section which contains starchy dishes.

By Velma Yamashita, MA

Recipe

Pancit Bihon: Filipino Rice Noodle Dish

1 small onion (sliced)
2 cloves garlic (minced)
1 package pancit noodles
3 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 cup cabbage (shredded)
1 green bell pepper (julienned)
1 cup carrots (julienned)
2 stalks celery (sliced on a diagonal)
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1-1 ½ cups chicken stock
Salt and pepper to taste
2 calamansi or 1 lemon, juiced

This dish is fairly quick to prepare.  Saute onions and garlic until onions become translucent.  Cut chicken into bite size pieces and brown with onions and garlic.  After chicken is cooked, add vegetables and 1 cup of chicken stock.  Bring to a boil and add pancit noodles.  Cover and simmer until noodles are soft.  Add soy sauce, salt and pepper to taste.

Images

Description

A variation of the more well-known Mexican tamale, this Chamorro version is characterized by its distinctive half white-half orange coloration.

History

Origin

In 1819 French explorer Louis Freycinet described a traditional way of preparing the local tamales from a bouillie (puree) of maize known as atolé mixed with pork or chicken, pimento, tomatoes and lard, as well as achote.  These ingredients were then cooked in an oven and served on a banana leaf.  It was a food served only on special occasions and with great ceremony.

The tamales gisu itself is made of corn meal and masa harina (corn flour) but each half is flavored differently.  The orange half is colored by achote (annatto) seed extract and flavored with meat such as bacon or chicken.  The white half represents the “starch” portion of the tamale and has no distinctive meat-flavor.  Unlike Mexican tamales, which are wrapped in corn husks, tamales gisu are often presented at the fiesta table wrapped in aluminum foil or banana leaves.

Evolution

Tamales are traditionally made from corn.  Throughout the Spanish era and even before World War II, corn was a major crop in the Marianas, occupying large parts of cultivated land.  Corn was introduced to the islands by Spanish missionaries shortly after regular visits from Mexico to the Philippines began, and it quickly replaced other local food items.  The corn was grown communally, and harvested at the end of June.  Husking parties with friends and neighbors were occasions to tell stories and jokes, and turn a tedious chore into a good time.  The corn would be husked and the grains left to dry on mats.  Later, the corn would be ground using a mitåte or grinding stone (a tool also appropriated from Mexican culture).

The most popular use for ground corn was in the production of titiyas (tortilla), but corn was also boiled or roasted on the cob, or boiled with coconut milk.  It is not clear when exactly Chamorros used the ground corn to form tamales, but presumably the same influences from Mexico that led to titiyas also led to the production of tamales as a popular food item.

The presence of a similar version of tamales in the Philippines (including the orange/white color) suggests that ideas about flavoring, preparation and presentation were shared as people traveled along the Manila-Acapulco-Marianas trade route.  The annatto seeds used to color the tamales are from the pods of the Bixa orellana plant, which is found in many parts of Latin America and the Carribean, and is also used as a food coloring in those places.

Preparation

The white and orange parts of tamales gisu are formed separately, then wrapped together in a banana leaf, or more commonly, aluminum foil, and steamed.  Served warm, tamales gisu makes a delicious side dish at the Chamorro fiesta table.

Placement on table

Tamales gisu falls into the traditional Chamorro food category of åggon, and is placed at the head of the table after the rice, bread and other starches. Other forms of tamales –  mendi’oka (tapioca) or suni (taro)- are sweet, therefore placed in the dessert section.

By Dominica M. Tolentino, MA

Recipe

Tamales Gisu: Red and White Tamales

Red portion:
¼ cup bacon, chopped
¼ cup garlic, chopped
¼ cup onions, chopped

Saute ingredients above and set aside. Mix the following ingredients in a separate bowl and add to the red portion, making it into a paste. Set aside.

2 cups achote (annatto) water*
2 cups cornstarch
2 cups of cornmeal

* Achote water is made by soaking  annatto seeds in water. Annatto powder, produced in the Philippines is now available in stores.

White portion:
¼ cup bacon, chopped
¼ cup garlic, chopped
¼ cup onions, chopped

Saute above ingredients and set aside. Mix the following ingredients and add to the white portion to make a paste.

2 cups masa harina (Mexican flour)
2 cups cornstarch water

Cut up foil into serving sized pieces and pour mixture (red and white portion side by side), fold foil, wrapping each tamale and freeze.

Steam before serving.

* Recipe by Judith Guthertz from Lepblon Fina’tinas Para Guam: Guam Cookbook, 1985.

Tamales Gisu Video Demonstration

Featuring Derek Royster of Yigo

Images

Description

The steamboat is a round of beef that is roasted whole and is usually carved on a serving line.

History

Origin

Roasted meats have been a standard in many cultures throughout history.   In the Mariana Islands, however, the main dietary source for protein came from fish, turtles, birds, bats and other animal species native to the archipelago.  It is not until the arrival of the Spanish in the 17th century that cattle, pigs and deer, and perhaps chicken, were introduced to the Chamorro people.

The Chamorros consumed meat primarily on special occasions only, preparing most of their beef in stews or soups, called kådo, but they also roasted or baked meat in an oven or over a grill.  They were probably also familiar with a variety of beef dishes enjoyed by the Spanish.

During Spanish times, feral cattle roamed the islands of Saipan, Tinian and Rota until the Germans colonized the islands and claimed the cattle as government property.  The Germans attempted, but were unable, to establish a commercial cattle industry in these northern islands.  Indeed, most cattle raised by Chamorros in Guam and the northern Marianas prior to World War II were utilized for draft purposes, milking or riding.  Many of these animals, however, were slaughtered to feed both American and Japanese military and civilians during and after the war.

As with the Germans, attempts to mix local cattle with other breeds imported by the US Navy and later, the US Agricultural Station, had mixed results.  Brahma cattle, more easily adaptable to the island’s warm weather and resistant to ticks, proved some success as meat and draft animals, though they did not produce much milk.  After World War II, imported beef and tins of meat became more readily available.

Evolution

The American families living on Guam prior to World War II probably introduced the most popular way of preparing roast beef today, with a simple rub of salt and pepper and roasting in an oven. Chamorro men who were enlisted in US Navy as mess attendants (cooks) may have also possibly brought these recipes of meat preparation home.

The emergence after World War II of indoor kitchens with gas or electric ovens that could handle the roasting of large portions of meat, allowed for roast beef, hams and turkeys to eventually become more prominent features of the fiesta or holiday table.   The steamboat round, however, is still reserved for the most special of celebrations, and a separate carving station at a large wedding reception or banquet for the steamboat is a common sight.

Preparation

The steamboat is a round of beef that is roasted whole and is usually carved on a serving line.  Because of the expense and elegant presentation of a steamboat round, this roast beef is considered a luxury or a prestige item that is served on the most special of occasions, such as wedding receptions, banquets and buffets.  The steamboat round of beef should not to be confused with the Asian steamboat or hotpot (stock pot).

The steamboat is derived from the cut of beef referred to as the round, which is at the rump or rear leg of the animal. A classic steamboat would consist of the whole roasted leg, including the top round, bottom round, eye of round, the knuckle and the rump still connected together.  These cuts represent the muscles that surround the femur (or thigh/shank) bone.  The steamboat can be presented with the shank bone-in, or boneless.

Placement on table

The steamboat round usually is placed separate from the other food items of the fiesta table, in its own “carving station.”  A chef carves the steamboat for each diner, who may request a particular portion based on cooked stages, from rare to well-done.  A roasted pig, ham and turkey may be found nearby as these luxury meats would be grouped together.

By Dominica M. Tolentino, MA

Images

Description

A mixture of various fresh vegetables, dressed with a sauce flavored with herbs or seasonings.

History

Origin

Salad is one of the most versatile dishes, utilizing a wide array of ingredients and dressings.  Its origins can be traced to a dish popular in 15th century Milan, evolving from a soup-like dish to the more recognizable mix of leafy greens and vegetables in 18th century France.  The Spanish introduced the notion of ensalåda to the Chamorros during the Spanish era beginning in the 17th century and lasting through the close of the 19th century.

Evolution

For the Chamorro fiesta table, only a few kinds of salad are commonly served, including cucumber (pipino) salad, often dressed with a simple vinaigrette of soy sauce, vinegar, oil and black pepper, and a type of coleslaw or combination of shredded cabbage, cucumbers and carrots with the same vinaigrette.  The soy sauce is representative of Asian influences on Chamorro cuisine from Japanese immigrants.  Creamy dressed salads such as American-style coleslaw, mixed green salads, fruit salads, and even salads of different kinds of vegetables and beans, are also available at some fiestas.  Chamorro-style potato salad is a popular standard on most fiesta tables.  A twist on the American potato salad, the Chamorro version typically consists of cooked diced potatoes, combined with mayonnaise, relish, olives, celery, onion and boiled eggs.  Macaroni or pasta salad is also a popular item, containing cooked macaroni pasta, mayonnaise, and other ingredients.

Preparation

Clearly, the types of salads presented at traditional fiestas depend largely on the availability of vegetables and other seasonings or ingredients for dressings.  The fairly rich soil in the Marianas allows for a variety of garden vegetables to be grown.  Most of these vegetables were introduced during the many years of Spanish colonization.  These include beans, onions, peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, melons, squash and cucumbers.  Traditionally, cucumbers were prepared by boiling, frying, baking or in stews, but were also used in salads when ripe.

American-style salads, including coleslaws, lettuce salads, fruit salads, potato salad and heart of palm salads, were introduced by American families during the early US Naval administration and utilized both imported and locally available ingredients.

Today many vegetables for salads and salad dressings are available at the local market, rather than grown in family gardens.  Nevertheless, a salad at the fiesta provides a nice balance among the abundant meat and starchy foods present at the table.

Placement on table

Salads are often placed together on the fiesta table in large serving bowls or containers at the end after the starches (åggon), meat and seafood (totche), and kelaguen dishes.

By Dominica M. Tolentino, MA

Images

Description

Potu (also spelled poto) are white rice cakes, distinctly flavored with a local coconut toddy or fermented sap called tuba (known as aguardiente in Spanish).

History

Origin

Potu are tuba-flavored rice cakes that were most likely introduced to Guam by Filipino immigrants during the Spanish era, along with other food items such as pancit, lumpia and dinaguan (fritada in Chamorro).  In the Philippines this steamed white rice cake is known as puto.  There are different varieties and recipes for puto in the Philippines, but for Chamorros, the main ingredients in potu are rice and tuba.  Tuba is a fermented drink made from coconut sap.

Evolution

Rice was cultivated by the ancient Chamorros, and was the preferred grain up through Spanish times, in addition to corn.  On Guam, rice was grown primarily in low-lying areas, while in the northern islands, at least through the German era, rice was cultivated along terraced slopes on the volcanic ridges in Rota and in marshes around Lake Susupe in Saipan.  This technique of wet cultivation was introduced by Filipino immigrants during the Spanish era.  Both men and women participated in the cultivation of rice as a communal activity. During the early American era, however, because rice cultivation was laborious, along with limited space for wet cultivation, rice was grown less and less, and imported rice became more popular.

According to Guam historian Robert Rogers, tuba was introduced to Guam as early as 1668 with the arrival of the Jesuit missionary, Father Diego Luis de Sanvitores, by his Filipino helpers.  Laura Thompson described in her ethnography of the Chamorro people how tuba was produced.  Basically, the sap of the coconut plant is collected and fermented to produce a slightly intoxicating substance. The substance could be distilled further to produce a type of rum, called aguardiente.

Preparation

Most fiestas will feature potu that has been purchased from the local grocery or mom-and-pop stores, as preparing potu with the proper texture and flavor is tricky.  Indeed a handful of families are reputed to make good potu, such as the Pablo family in Mongmong and a family in Saipan whose traditional clan name is Familian Potu.

Placement on table

Although potu is often eaten as a breakfast item, like a pastry, or a snack, these simple-looking rice cakes are still special enough to have a place at a large fiesta, alongside other desserts at the end of the table or on a separate table.

By Dominica M. Tolentino, MA

Recipe

Potu:Tuba Rice Cakes

5 lbs long grain rice
1 pint sweet tuba
1 pint water
5 pounds sugar

Add water to cover the level of rice. Let rice soak for two hours, then rinse. Grind rice to a powder. Mix the remaining ingredients and allow to soak overnight. Stir three times during the night. Pour into poto cups** and steam for ten minutes. May be baked at 350 degrees for 10 minutes or until golden brown. Serve with butter.

* Recipe by Bell H. Gumataotao from Lepblon Fina’tinas Para Guam: Guam Cookbook, 1985.

**(Poto cups are individual stainless steel cups. A cupcake tray may be used to substitute individual cups.)

Images

Description

Like fish, crab was a staple in the Chamorro diet. Land crabs, pång’lao in Chamorro, continues to be one of the most frequently harvested animals on the island. Pång’lao echong (crooked crab) is the most common of the land crabs. It has extremely large claws.

History

Origin

Along with fish, crab and other shellfish were the primary protein source for ancient Chamorros. Crab hunting has probably been a human activity since prehistoric times.

Evolution

In addition to being a source of protein, crabs were significant to the ancient Chamorros. This is evident in Chamorro oral traditions that include stories with central characters that are crabs or simply mention crabs or crab hunting as an activity.

One such story is the legend of Puntan Påtgon (Child’s Point) about a powerful man who becomes envious of his child’s superior strength. According to the legend the son was so powerful that as a little child he uprooted a coconut tree trying to get his pet crab. In another legend, golden-spotted crabs were the escorts of a statue in the image of the island’s patron saint, Santa Marian Kamalen, who was also referred to as the “Lady of the Crabs” because of the story.

Land crabs are much sought after even today. Residents wait for the lunar cycle (on the eve of a full moon) to go crab hunting. In the past crabs were plentiful and could be obtained easily. While they can still be found today, some residents “order” crabs from the southern villages or other locations such as Palau and the Philippines. This is largely due to the time it takes to catch, purge and prepare the dish.

This dish can be eaten anytime and at any gathering and is not associated with any particular event or occasion.

Preparation

Crab hunting is a family affair with men, women and children taking part in the hunt.

After they are caught, crabs are kept for a few days to purge their system of toxins and to fatten them up. They are usually fed a diet of grated coconut.

There are regional difference in how the stuffing for the grab is prepared. In northern and central Guam, the stuffing is called “pengot.” In southern Guam, it is referred to as “ka’it.”

Placement on table

Stuffed crab is placed alongside the fish on the fiesta table. The fish section is the third section coming after the starch section (åggon) and the meat section (totche). The vegetables and salad section follows the fish section. The kelaguen, fina’ denne’ and kadu (soup) section is at the end of the table. The desserts are usually located on a separate table.

By Jillette Leon-Guerrero, MA

Recipe

Pång’lao: Stuffed land crab

Crabs
Onion, chopped
Pepper leaves, chopped
Pumpkin Tips, chopped
Red Pepper, chopped
Coconut, grated
Coconut milk (for every 1 cup of coconut milk add ½ cup of water).

Remove shell from body of crab. Set aside. Remove bitter part (bile) then scrap out meat. Mix finely chopped onion, pepper leaf, pumpkin tips, and donne (hot red chile peppers) and grated coconut.  Stuff mixture  in shell and tie it securely with coconut leaf or string.

Mix coconut milk and water and place in large stock pot.  Submerge stuffed crab in pot.  Vegetables can be added to the top of crab if desired.  Cover and let boil until crab turns red.

* Recipe provided by Sen. Pilar Lujan